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Anatomy of a House No.22: The Hopkins House

29/4/2025

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Anatomy of a House No.22

49a Downshire Hill, Hampstead
1975

Michael and Patty Hopkins

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The Hopkins House as seen from the garden
Architect Michael Hopkins designed and oversaw a range of buildings throughout his career; the Mound Stand at Lords Cricket Ground, Portcullis House and the attached Westminster Underground station, the London 2012 velodrome and many others. But the one building most associated with him is the house he and his wife Patty designed for themselves on Downshire Hill in Hampstead. Widely known as the Hopkins House, 49a Downshire Hill is a straightforward steel and glass block tucked among the genteel properties of Hampstead (although of course the area is home to 1930s modernist designs by Erno Goldfinger, Connell Ward & Lucas and others). It acted as a home to the couple and their family, and an office for their practice up to 1984, until Michael’s death in 2023.
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Cross section of the Hopkins House
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The floor plans of the first and ground floors of the Hopkins House
Michael Hopkins was born in Poole on May 7th 1935, with his parents apparently deciding at a young age that he would become an architect. After studying at Bournemouth School of Art and spending time with the practices of Basil Spence and Frederick Gibberd, Hopkins enrolled at the Architectural Association. There he met fellow student Patty Wainwright, and the couple would marry in 1962. After graduating Michael would join the practice of Norman Foster where he worked on projects such as the Willis Faber & Dumas Building in Ipswich and the IBM Office in Cosham, both forward looking structures in glass and steel. In 1976, Michael and Patty set up in practice together, and needing both an office and home in London (they had a 15th century timber frame home in Suffolk), they decided to build a combined house and workspace themselves.
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The first floor office space at the Hopkins House
The couple had found a plot on Downshire Hill in Hampstead with a 46ft frontage, normally enough for two houses. It had been part of the garden of the neighbouring house, previously owned by Frederick Gibberd. Rather than dividing the plot to build in half of itt and make a profit on the other half, they decided to use the whole area, with the first floor acting as the street level entrance and another floor below. Initially the first floor was given over to their office with the living area below, As time moved on and the family needed more space, the living area started to creep upstairs, and a new office for the practice was built in Broadley Terrace, Marylebone in 1984. 
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The blue painted spiral staircase and internal frame. Image from RIBApix.

The structure for the new house was overseen by engineer Tony Hunt, who came up with a steel frame with plywood and metal decking for the floor plates, allowing a sturdy but lightweight framework. To the street and garden fronts, the house was finished in wall to ceiling glass and the sides in metal cladding. The Hopkins’ had wanted to experiment with space, choosing a plan that would give them the maximum available which they could then divide as suits. The internal space was divided by eight support columns, but these were only 60mm square, with movable plastic partitions and blinds used to designate different areas within. Shower and bedroom pods were later added to allow for more privacy for the family of two adults and three children. The industrial components used to create the house were livened up with blue painted metal work like the spiral staircase which connects the two floors and the internal frame. 
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The Crystal Palace house in Bury St Edmunds (1978) by Michael & Patty Hopkins. Image from C20 Society.
The house was well received, winning a RIBA award and a Civic Trust Award in the years after it was completed. The house given a Grade II* listing designation in 2018. The Hopkins practice grew and grew from the late 1970s onwards, with a number of prestigious commissions and projects. The Hopkins only designed one other similar house, “Crystal Palace” in Bury St Edmunds in 1978. It is a single storey, pavilion-style house, built in steel and glass, with floor to ceiling windows all around. It suffered from a number of alterations over the years, but has been refurbished in 2015 by project orange. Michael Hopkins was awarded a CBE in 1989 and then knighted in 1995, He passed away on 17th June 2023. Patty Hopkins was awarded the OBE in 2024, and still lives at 49a Downshire Hill.
References

Historic England Listing Page

Newton: Architects' London Houses 


Jackson: Modern Steel House

Bradbury: Iconic British House 



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Anatomy of a House No.21: 78 South Hill Park

20/3/2025

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Anatomy of a House No.21

78 South Hill Park, Hampstead
1964 
Brian Housden

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We have previously explored Ted Cullinan’s self-built house in Camden Mews from 1963, in an area where many architects designed and built their own homes. This edition of Anatomy of a House covers another self-designed house in the borough, the striking 78 South Hill Park by Brian Housden. South Hill Park is a residential street just to the south of Hampstead Heath, laid out in the late 19th century in a tennis racquet shape, with large Victorian-era houses.  An area on the west side of the loop of the street was hit by a bomb during World War II, and the site was sold for redevelopment. As with the vacant sites in Camden Mews and Murray Mews, the plot on South Hill Park was snapped up by young architects looking to build their own houses. Nos. 80-90 is a terrace of six houses, designed by Stanley Amis and Bill & Gill Howell from 1956 for themselves and four other families. On the opposite side of the road are two conjoined houses , Nos. 29 and 31, by Michael Brawne and T. Ingersoll, but the most eye-catching is Housden’s brutalist No.78. Erno Goldfinger also produced a design for a house and for an apartment block here in the late 1940s, but the project wasn't built. 
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80-90 South Hill Park by Stanley Amis and Bill & Gill Howell. Image from RIBApix.
Nowadays, South Hill Park is a well to do part of Hampstead, but that wasn't the case when the Housden’s found the plot for their house. The original Victorian villas that line the majority of the street had largely been converted into flats at the start of the 20th century, and the street had also become notorious for criminal reasons. Amazingly, the last two women executed in the country, Styllou Christophi and Ruth Ellis, both committed their murders on South Hill Park. 
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Rietveld Schroder House (1924) by Truus Schroder-Schrader and Gerrit Rietveld. Image from Conway.

Brian Housden was born in 1928, and studied at the Architectural Association at the beginning of the 1950s. Brian and his wife Margaret began searching for a plot to build their own home in north London, eventually buying a small piece of land from John Killick (future partner of Stanley Amis and Bill Howell in the HKPA partnership) in 1958. It would take another six years before the Housden’s moved into the still-uncompleted No.78, with Brian rethinking his early designs after a trip to the Netherlands were they saw the 1924 Rietveld Schroder House, designed in 1924 by Truus Schroder-Schrader and Gerrit Rietveld, also meeting the architects themselves. 
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On the same trip, the Housdens also met architect Aldo Van Eyck, known for his Structuralist designs, such as Amstrdam Orphanage of 1960, which was designed with spaces that mirror the different ages of its residents and a mixture of facilities that make it into a mini city. Housden’s design for his new house was also influenced by the Maison de Verre house in Paris by Pierre Chareau, Bernard Bijvoet and Dalbert from 1932, with its use of glass blocks and exposed services and structural elements. 

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The rear of 78 South Hill Park.
The house as Housden finally designed it sits two and half storeys tall on South Hill Park, between the terrace of Amis and Howell houses and Alexander Gibson’s 1949 house at No.76. The facade is a riot of projecting and receding forms, with its concrete frame and canopies offset by the Nevada glass lenses which make up most of the wall space. The lenses are set into concrete frames reinforced by aluminum, and allow a diffused light into the interior, providing both illumination and privacy. The rest of the structure is formed of hollow clinker concrete blockwork and narrow Crittall windows. Glass blocks were used for rooflights, which provide illumination from the top of the internal staircase. The staircase itself is formed from reinforced concrete, separate from the main frame of the house, and rises through the building. Inside, the main living area is arranged over the lower ground floor with an open plan kitchen, a sunken dining area and living room. Above this is the ground floor with office space for two people. The house has four bedrooms, with the master bedroom having an extra high ceiling of 12 feet, the other three bedrooms have ceilings of 8 feet. 
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The monolithic concrete staircase at 78 South Hill Park. Image from Wallpaper.
Building on the house began in October 1963, with the engineering side overseen by Danish engineer Nills Lisberg, who had to ensure the structure did not sink into the clay excavated over 100 years previously for the creation of Hampstead Ponds. The Housden’s moved into the unfinished house in 1964, with the fitting out continuing over the next 35 years. The interior of the shuttered concrete structure was generally left unvarnished, with a circular ceiling motif repeated in the dining area, master bedroom and study area. During their visit to the Netherlands, the Housden’s also acquired a large number of original furniture pieces designed by Gerrit Rietveld, which they used to furnish the house, along with chairs by Charles & Ray Eames. 
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Brian Housden at 78 South Hill Park. Image from The Modern House.
Compared to its neighbours at Nos 80-90, the house was seldom mentioned in architectural literature, although it has apparently been compared to a “ruined Japanese town hall”, (possibly Kenzo Tange’s Kurashiki Hall?) and Buildings of England's North London volume remarks it is a “strange brutalist composition”. However, the house has gained somewhat more fame in the digital age being fixture on concrete obsessed social media accounts (guilty!). No. 78 was Grade II listed in November 2014, with the listing notes calling it “a completely unique piece of architectural vision and ingenuity”. Brian Housden passed the same year and the house was finally sold by the family in 2018. 

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References

Volume 4: Post War Houses Twentoeth Century Architecture  2020
Buildings of England: London North
Historic England Listing Entry


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A UFO in the Suburbs: Southgate Underground Station

11/3/2025

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Southgate station at night
The extension of the Piccadilly Line eastwards from Finsbury Park into what was then Middlesex took place between April 1931 when the first plans were submitted and the opening of Cockfosters station in July 1933. Eight stations, as well as signal boxes, electricity substations and a new depot were designed by consultant architect Charles Holden and the design team of London Transport, headed by Stanley Heaps. The first section was completed on 19th September 1932 with Manor House, Turnpike Lane, Wood Green, Bounds Green and Arnos Grove opening for service. Six months later on 13th March 1933, two more stations opened, Southgate and Oakwood. The latter station was designed by C.H. James in a Sudbury-box style, with brick walls and a concrete roof. But it was the design of Southgate that caught the attention of both the architectural press and the public at large.
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A London Transport poster advertising the building of the Piccadilly Line extension to Southgate. Image from London Transport Museum.

The first design for Southgate had a lozenge-like shape with three floors, the ground level for the ticket hall and shops, then two rows of flats above. This design was later reworked into the station we know today. The ticket hall building is circular in form, like a UFO set down in the growing suburbs. Holden had dabbled with the circle in his stations design before, with the previous station on the line Arnos Grove, and Chiswick Park on the western extension. But both of those buildings had sat on a square brick base. Here the curve is unadulterated, with the experiment in form having a practical dimension, in trying to improve the flow of passengers to and from the platforms to street level. The roof is built in thin concrete, a design aided by assistant Israel Schultz, and undulates like the roof of a tent. On top of the roof is a lighting element made up of concrete blocks, bronze, glass and a copper ball. 
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Southgate's ticket hall with the passimeter at the centre. Image from London Transport Museum.
The supporting walls are built in the same multi-coloured Buckinghamshire brick used throughout the eastern extension stations, with bronze shop fronts for the various kiosks around the outside of the station. Inside, the roof is supported by a single concrete column, with the ticket passimeter around it.  The interior is lit by a thin, continuous window which goes around the top of the ticket hall, as well as hidden lighting. Escalators and stairs lead down to the platform area, with bronze uplighters providing illumination along the way. The concourse and platform areas featured cream and yellow tilework, and the tall light fittings also featured at the other extension stations. 
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The bus and shopping parade around Southgate station. Image from RIBApix.

The 1930s stations designed by Holden, and overseen by London Transport general manager Frank Pick, were not just envisioned at tube stops, but as transport hubs connecting to other LT services like tram and bus, as well as including shops and other services. This idea can be seen at Southgate in the curving bus and shop parade opposite the ticket hall. The arrangement of the parade, with buses coming off the main road to stops behind the station, would allow passengers to quickly and easily connect to services to get them to and from the underground. The two-storey parade building is built with the same Bucks brick structure as the station, with the curved glazed ends showcasing the North European modernism seen by Holden and Pick on their 1930 tour to the continent. The area around the ticket hall also features the wonderful mast-like structures which were designed to combine lighting, seating and timetables.
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Southgate station with the bus parade still under construction. Image from Enfield Dispatch.
Southgate and the other Piccadilly extension stations were the highpoint of Holden’s time designing for the underground. Although he would design a number of other stations after the completion of the extension in 1933, his design never quite reached the heights shown here. The Piccadilly Line stations were well received, and seen as the first set of modernist public buildings in the country. Pick linked the work of designing and building new stations as akin to that carried out by he great cathedral builders, with armies of people employed in creating these masterpieces, something he termed “medieval modernism”. 

​The stations on the extension were given statutory listing in February 1971 as part of the first batch of modernist buildings to be protected, but by the 1990s had fallen into disrepair. A refurbishment programme was undertaken with original elements either restored or replaced with replicas, although today the stations could do with a bit more TLC. Southgate and the other stations on the eastern extension still operate today as a testament to the vision of both Charles Holden and Frank Pick, and their quest to bring modernity to the suburbs. 

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Southgate and all the other in the Piccadilly Line extension are featured in our London Tube Stations 1924-61 book, examining the modernist era of station design led by Charles Holden. Get your copy HERE
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Park Royal Station

26/2/2025

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Park Royal Station was opened on March 1st 1936. Built to replace a previous station from 1903, the new station was part of the New Works Programme of 1935-40, as London Transport looked to overhaul old stations to fit in with the new look pioneered by Charles Holden’s early 1930s stations. The original station was called Park Royal & Twyford Abbey, serving the District Railway, and was located to the north of the current station.It had been built to serve the Royal Agricultural Showgrounds site which opened the same year, and from which the area derives its name. That station closed on July 2nd 1931 and services began from the new site a day later with a temporary entrance until the completion of the new station.
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Image from London Transport Museum.
The new Park Royal was designed by Herbert Welch and Felix Lander, who had also designed the neighbouring Hanger Hill estate for developers Haymills from 1928. Lander had worked in the office of Charles Holden, so was well equipped to design a new station.The 1936 station building is very much in the Holden mould, but with a more eye-catching profile, possibly at the behest of London Transport chief Frank Pick, who had wanted to build more dynamic stations, able to act as adverts for the LT brand. 
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The ticket hall of Park Royal Station. Image from London Transport Museum.
The ticket hall is circular in the mode of Chiswick Park or Southgate with clerestory windows and a central passimeter ticket booth, and a tall, square tower proclaiming its presence to motorists speeding by on Western Avenue. Connected to this is a curving parade of shops and flats, all constructed from the same light brown brick. As with a number of new tube stations from the 1930s, the name of the stop changed in the years after it opened, beginning as Park Royal (Hanger Hill) before dropping the name in brackets in 1947. ​
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Park Royal Hotel and Garage. Image from RIBApix.
The best view of the station is from the eastbound platform where the arrangement of volumes and shapes, retangular, circular, square, step upwards in height towards the roadside. This was the only station designed by Welch and Lander, and unlike some of the other New Works stations (like East Finchley and Rayners Lane), did not need to be redesigned by Holden. The station was Grade II listed in January 1987. 
Park Royal is one of many stations featured in our London Tube Stations 1924-61 book, examining the modernist era of station design led by Charles Holden. Get your copy HERE
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The Brutalist

30/1/2025

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Colman House, Hayes (1962) Image from RIBApix.
The Brutalist, the Oscar favourite directed by Brady Corbet and starring Adrien Brody, opened in UK cinemas last week, and so we celebrate the birthday of one of the original brutalists, Rodney Gordon, who was born on 2nd February 1933. Born in Wanstead, Gordon studied architecture at Hammersmith and the Architectural Association, before like many other architects of his generation, going to work for London County Council Architect’s Department. His most notable design during his short stay there was the Michael Faraday substation at Elephant and Castle, a stainless steel box with an oversailing concrete frame. Gordon’s original design had glass panels, allowing the box’s inner workings to be seen, before it was swapped for metal to avoid vandalism.
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The Michael Faraday substation under construction. Image from RIBApix.
Gordon then met Owen Luder via fellow LCC designer Dennis Drawbridge, who persuaded both to design what would be an unsuccessful entry in the competition to design the new Elephant and Castle Shopping Centre. They would both join his partnership and go onto design a number of bold, concrete structures all around the suburbs of London, usually for commercial developers such as Alec Colman. One such design was Hendon Hall Court, a block of 54 flats, in a mixture of two and three bedrooms and maisonettes, just off the Great North Way road.
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The entrance to Hendon Hall Court (`1966).
The firm also specialized in commercial buildings, often combining offices, flats and shops. A notable example is Eros House in Lewisham for Bernard Sunley Investments, a forceful design in reinforced concrete with a glazed staircase tower on the street side and a small curving concrete staircase at the rear. Gordon decided to extenuate the forcefulness of the design to overcome any possible lack of quality and detailing in the proposed shuttered concrete finish. Architecture critic Ian Nairn hailed the building, saying that it was “A monster sat down in Catford, and just what the place needed”. Despite being on Lewisham’s local list  the building has been allowed to be run down by various owners with Luder later disowning it.
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Eros House, Catford (1963). Image from RIBApix.
Gordon’s two most famous designs have suffered a worse fate, both demolished at the start of this century. The Trinity Square shopping centre and car park, Gateshead was famously used in the film Get Carter, and demolished in 2010. It was designed to incorporate shops, restaurants and community facilities, as well as a rooftop nightclub that was never opened. At the opposite end of the country, the Tricorn Centre in Portsmouth opened in 1966, also combining shopping, leisure facilities and parking in a tough concrete finish. From opening, the centre had problems with footfall, being located away from the main shopping area of the town. Through the 1980s and 90s, the centre became run down and shops started to close, and it was demolished in 2004. 
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Design for the Tricorn Centre, Portsmouth.
Gordon didn't just design in concrete. His Grade II listed house and studio designed for himself in Hersham, Surrey, named Turnpoint (1962) uses timber cladding around a steel frame with an angled roofline, the house is raised on stilts with parking underneath. Gordon left the Luder partnership in the 1967, setting up Batir International Architects, later to be called Tripos Architects, alongside Ray Baum and Laurie Abbott (who would go on to work with Richard Rogers, being part of the Pompidou and Lloyds projects). 
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Turnpoint, Hersham (1962). Image from The Modern House.
Gordon would go on to  design the striking Target House on St James Street, Westminster, completed in 1984. It is clad in anodised bronze and aluminum and has a strong vertical emphasis. Like his earlier work with Luder, it is multi-functional, containing shops, offices and flats. Gordon died in 2008, and was largely forgotten save for Jonathan Meades who remarked that “There are as many ideas in a single Gordon building as there are in the entire careers of most architects” and his work was “haunted by Russian constructivism, crusader castles, Levantine skylines”. ​
The work of Rodney Gordon and Owen Luder features in our new guidebook, Modernism Beyond Metro-Land, which explores the best modernist and brutalist architecture from the eastern and southern suburbs of London. Get your copy HERE 
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Anatomy of a House No.20: Dorich House

8/1/2025

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Dorich House, Kingston upon Thames
1936
Dora Gordine, Richard Hare and Henry Cole

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Dorich House. Image from Historic England.
Situated on a thin strip of land between the Kingston Vale Road and the south eastern edge of Richmond Park, is one of the most interesting modernist houses of the interwar years. Dorich House was the home cum studio of artist Dora Gordine and her husband Richard Hare from 1936, the house's name was a portmanteau of their first names. The house was designed by Gordine with Hare and the assistance of architect Henry Ivor Cole, in a synthesis of modernism, expressionism and more traditional styles. It has been wonderfully preserved and is now on the ownership of Kingston University, and open to the public throughout the year.
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Gordine and Hare enjoying tea on the roof terrace of Dorich House, Image from Historic England.
Gordine was born in Latvia, then part of the Russian Empire, in 1895, the youngest of four children to Russian Jewish parents. The family moved to Tallinn, Estonia in 1912, with Dora becoming involved with the ‘Young Estonia’ group of artists. The group were interested in the Art Nouveau style, with Gordine sculpting in bronze. She moved to Paris to study in 1924, and the following year contributed a mural for the British Pavilion at the 1925 Paris Exhibition, the first public outing of what would be later known as Art Deco. Her sculptures became more and more popular between the mid 1920s and the start of the 1930s, already an acclaimed artist when she met Richard Hare, son of the Earl of Listowel. Gordine was twice married by this point, but in 1936 married Hare with the couple deciding to settle in London and build their own home. 
At first they asked architect Godfrey Samuel, formerly of Berthold Lubetkin’s Tecton partnership and later partner of Val Harding, to design a house in Merton Lane, Highgate. That house was not built, with Gordine and Hare instead deciding to build a house to the south west of London on the edge of Richmond Park. The exact genesis of the design for Dorich House is not clear, but it seems it was designed by Gordine and her husband, with architect Henry Ivor Cole employed to oversee the design and fill in any technical bits. Gordine and Hare selected the materials they wanted to use from the Building Centre in London and arranged the contractors themselves. Gordine had no formal architectural training but had commissioned an apartment/studio designed by influential French architect Auguste Perret during her time in France. Perrett was an innovator in concrete construction and a strong influence on the likes of Le Corbusier, Erno Goldfinger and Berthold Lubetkin.
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Dora Gordine's Studio, Rue du Belvédère, Paris
However, Dorich House does not take outward influence from this modernist school of design. Unlike the contemporary modernist houses of the 1930s, (like nearby Miramonte by Maxwell Fry), Dorch House does not have white rendered walls, strong horizontal lines or a nautical influence of metal railings and balconies. Instead it is set in an almost square plan, rising to three storeys plus a roof terrace. Unlike its contemporary modernist cousins, whose elevations tended to be scrupulously symmetrical and hinting at an industrial aesthetic, Dorich House’s elevations are individual and reflective of the house as both a studio for art and an object in itself. 
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The gallery area on the first floor with its arched doorway. Image from Historic England.
The elevation that greets visitors from the driveway has a double-height rounded window bay with thin, vertical windows. The longer facade onto the garden is divided in the centre by a square staircase tower, with an arched doorway, vertical windows at first floor level and half moon windows above. The northern facade is maybe the most interesting. It has two floors of angled, metal framed windows, designed to bring an even light into Gordine’s studios. Depending on which elevation you face, the house appears to be a miniature castle, an expressionist-influenced factory or an artist's workshop. The house is constructed in red brick with some concrete apparent above the doorways and around the balconies, but otherwise hidden. ​
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One of the two studio spaces at Dorich House. Image from Dorich House Museum.
Inside, over the three floors, are a sequence of small but perfectly designed spaces to accommodate Gordine and Hare's private and artistic endeavors. The ground floor was originally home to the servants' bedrooms, with Gordine’s plaster studio also on this level. On the next floor up is another studio space, along with a gallery area, lit by the long, vertical windows. The second floor is home to the couple’s apartment, with a bedroom, and living room and dining room joined by a Chinese moon door, echoing the half moon windows on that level. The living area also has fireplaces which replicate those designed by Perrett for Gordine’s Paris residence. The rooftop is covered in a terrace that the couple used to sleep out on on occasions. From this vantage point, they could see Richmond Park to the north and Roehampton Vale to the south. ​
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The Chinese moon door between the living and dining areas. Image from Dorich House Museum.
Gordine and Hare lived in the house for the rest of their lives. Hare passed away in 1966, and Gordine continued to reside at Dorich House, alone, until her death in 1991. The house, which was listed in 1983 but had fallen into some disrepair over the years, was purchased by Kingston University and restored. The university has made the house into a museum celebrating Gordine’s life and works, open to the public throughout the year.
Dorich House in included in our new guidebook, Modernism Beyond Metro-Land, which covers the finest modernist buildings of the London's eastern and southern boroughs. Sign up for your copy HERE
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Edgware 1924: The Making of a Suburb

27/11/2024

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A poster advertising the opening of the Northern Line Edgware extension. Image from London Transport Museum.
One hundred years ago, the new Edgware Underground station was opened. It marked the completion of the tube extension from Golders Green, on the line we now call the Northern, but what was then the Charing Cross. Euston & Hampstead Railway, owned by the Underground Electric Railways Company of London, the forerunner to London Transport. The expansion of the underground in the first 30 or so years of the 20th century helped spur a suburban boom, as improved transport links allowed people to travel more easily for work and live further away from the centre of London. Property developers built numerous speculative estates around the newly built stations, and other buildings followed, for leisure, education and other needs, some modernist-influenced, most not. 
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Edgware station (in the foreground) and the town as seen shortly after the opening of the station. Image from Britain From Above.
Edgware had been a stopping point for journeys to and from London for hundreds of years, with its main industry being farming and hay making. The Great Northern Railway arrived in the second half of the 19th century, but a population boom did not follow. In the early years of the 20th century, speculative builders like George Cross began to build new houses, with the population increasing to just over 1500 by 1921. The arrival of the tube three years later would increase this figure by 350% over the next 10 years. 

The new station itself was designed by Stanley Heaps, chief architect to the UERL, and later the chief designer for London Transport, although he would be overshadowed by Charles Holden’s input. The station he designed for Edgware continued the suburban theme he used for the previous stations on the extension, at Hendon, Brent Cross and others. The ticket hall was placed in the middle of a U-shaped colonnaded parade containing shops and waiting rooms for bus passengers, with a palette of wooden doors, black & white quarry tiles and iron railings. The streamlined modernity of future stations like Arnos Grove, would have to wait a few years to arrive at the platform.
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Sun Trap houses for sale in Old Rectory Gardens. Image from RIBApix.
However, there were more modernist designs to be found not far from Heaps’ Neo-Georgian terminus. Just around the corner from the station is Old Rectory Gardens, one of the first art deco influenced speculative house groups to be built in the suburbs. They were designed by the partnership of Welch, Cachemaille-Day and Lander, who became known for their Sun Trap style, debuted here. The Sun Trap house incorporated moderne elements from modernism and deco such as curved metal windows, decorative tilework and white render finish, whilst still keeping a traditional house shape, usually presented in terraces or semi detached plans. This compromise became very popular with developers and was much imitated, still found lining the streets of Metro-Land and beyond. 
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A poster for Roger Malcolm of Edgware, developer of many speculative estates in Edgware and beyond. Image from MODA.
The Old Rectory Gardens houses were built for developer Roger Malcolm, who built other schemes in the area, also designed by Welch, Cachemaille-Day and Lander, and can be found at Mill Ridge and St Margarets Road. Other developers followed suit with estates by developers such as John Laing, Wimpey and others quickly filling up any available space. Laing built streets of houses to the north of the new station on the Broadfield Estate, with its Coronation type house, complete with rounded entrance and staircase tower, found at intervals along the new roads. South from there, just across the Edgware Way is a collection of art deco houses by builder and architect Cyril B Heygate on Highview Avenue from 1933. Nos 87-91 still exhibit their colourful decoration with way lines in red between the two floors and beside the upper windows. On the upper end of the speculative market is 2 Broadfields Avenue, a moderne house designed by JE Newberry for Streather and Hogan Builders, an L-shaped house with a curved staircase tower and streamlined balcony. 
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The Gas Light and Coke showroom on Station Road. Image from RIBApix.
Away from housing, there are shopping parades such as the Quadrant Parade, Station Road (1928) and Kings Parade both put up by George Cross, and built in a typically interwar style in red brick with some deco detailing. A similar match of historical and moderne elements was used by Welch, Cachemaille-Day and Lander for their Gas Light and Coke showroom on Station Road, with deco details such as chunky name sign, streamlined lighting and doors with half moon windows fitted onto the existing Neo-Georgian shop. The building still stands, as a Starbucks at 81 Station Road, but the deco details have long gone. 
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The Ritz Cinema, Edgware. Image from Cinema Treasures.
Also in the centre of this new town was the Ritz Cinema, designed by architect Major WJ King, who designed a number of cinemas around the suburbs. The Ritz opened in May 1932, and its design was quite eye-catching, with the profile of an art deco castle, with an array of tower-like projections on its exterior, Inside, it was decorated in a Spanish garden theme. Complete with painted woodland scenes. The cinema was modernised in 1968 with a blue metal screen installed at the front. It remained as a cinema until 2001, when it closed, being demolished the following year. ​
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John Keble Memorial Church. Image from Coulthard.
The most obviously modernist building of the interwar expansion of Edgware was the new church on Deans Lane, the John Keble Memorial Church (1937), designed by D.F. Martin-Smith, who had won the competition for its design, judged by Edward Maufe. It has a square tower with a concrete lantern, constructed of reinforced concrete and yellow stock brick. Inside, the ceiling is constructed in a diagrid pattern, with a diagonal pattern in coffered concrete. The church is now Grade II listed.

Certainly not modernist, but definitely worth mentioning, is the Railway Hotel, an “improved” pub of 1931. It was designed by A.E. Sewell for the Truman Hanbury and Buxton brewery, in a Neo-Tudor style with half timbering, decorative brick chimneys and leaded windows. Improved pubs were built by the chain breweries in the 1920s and 30s, seeking to attract a better class of clientele such as families, and designed to include parking facilities, comfortable saloon bars and dining rooms. They were built all around the suburbs, quite often next to or just off the new bypass and circular roads of the era. Some were built in a moderne style, but most harked back to earlier eras, as seen with the Railway Hotel, Unfortunately this example has not been treated well by the 21st century, and is currently in a dilapidated state, despite its listed status. ​
In the postwar years the area continued to become more built up and with modernism becoming the accepted architectural style, a number of tower blocks and offices appeared in the town centre. These in turn have largely been replaced by the 21st century successors as the town undergoes a major redevelopment in a partnership between developers Ballymore and Transport for London, something which has been fought against by locals fearful of the town they know disappearing before their eyes. 

Many of the houses mentioned here can be found in our Speculative Suburban Houses 1928-38 Mini Guide, available HERE

References
Pevsner London North- Cherry and Pevsner
Semi Detached London- Jackson 
Tube Station Anthology 1900-1933- Abbott and Trower


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Anatomy of a House No.19:The Homewood, Esher

20/11/2024

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Anatomy of a House No.19
​

The Homewood, Esher, Surrey
1939
Patrick Gwynne

Picture
The Homewood, Esher. Image via the Coulthard Collection.
1939 was a high watermark year for the private modernist house in Britain. In this blog series, we have already covered Erno Goldfinger's terrace at Willow Road and Seely and Paget's Studio House in Highgate, both completed the same year. Peter Moro’s Harbour Meadow house at Birdham in West Sussex was also completed in 1939, but perhaps the finest house that year was The Homewood in Esher, Surrey, designed by 26 year old architect Patrick Gwynne for his parents, and later to be his own home.

Gwynne was born on 24th March 1914 in Porchester, Hampshire. His parents were Naval commander Alban Gwynne and Ruby. He attended Harrow school, where he apparently saw Amyas Connell’s High and Over on a sketching trip, a pivotal moment for the young Gwynne. Avoiding his fathers plans for him to go into accountancy, Gwynne trained with former Lutyens assistant Ernest Coleridge, before joining the office of Canadian architect and Isokon designer, Wells Coates, alongside a young Denys Lasdun. Gwynne designed The Homewood just after leaving Coates, after his parents sold an inherited plot of land in Wales, allowing them to pay for the demolition of the old “Homewood” house they had lived in for 25 years and the construction of a new one. The old house was sited next to the main road which had got progressively busier since they settled here, and Gwynne placed the new house at the back of the 10 acre plot amongst mature trees. ​
Picture
The ground and first floor plans for The Homewood. Image via the Coulthard Collection.
The new Homewood Gwynne designed was a ‘Gesamtkunstwerk’, a total work of art, with the young architect creating all the furniture, fittings and even detailing the landscape. The house itself is effectively a two-storey bungalow, with the ground floor built in dark purple brick containing a garage and utility rooms and the living area residing on the elevated first floor. This living area is divided into two sections, an L-shaped portion containing the living room, kitchen, dining room and staff quarters, and a rectangular section housing the bedrooms. These two sections are divided by a spiral staircase which also acts as the entrance from the ground floor. The facades of the two distinct elevations are designed using a standard vertical and horizontal unit, with the wall lengths and windows being multiples of these.
Picture
The first floor living area in The Homewood.
The first floor of the building is constructed of reinforced concrete (engineered by Felix Samuley), which also forms the piers which create a walkway in the garden area with the first floor overhanging it. The main living area runs the length of the upper level with floor to ceiling windows.The living area also has a sprung maple floor and moveable furniture, ready for dancing to begin on social occasions. The living areas, and the rest of the houses, are fitted out with a range of bespoke materials and artworks; including signature wallpapers, abstract panels by Stefan Knapp, a wall of Levanto marble incorporating the fireplace, a folding screen by Peter Thompson and a glass chandelier. No expense was spared on the house, Gwynne’s father would call it the “Temple of costly experience”. Gwynne’s old work colleague, Denys Lasdun, designed the swimming pool on the south terrace, finished in mosaic tiles. The grounds also feature a collection of ponds created out of a tributary of the River Mole.
Picture
One of Patrick Gwynne's record drawings for The Homewood, showing the design of the gardens and landscape. Image from RIBApix.
The house's patrons, Gwynne’s parents, did not live long enough to enjoy their son's designs. They both died before the end of World War II, and his sister decided not to live there, leaving Patrick as the house's inhabitant for the next 46 years, alongside his companion, pianist Harry Rand. The Homewood also acted as his office and showroom for his clients over the next half decade, with many of Gwynne’s future commissions featuring design details Gwynne first tested at his home. Gwynne also designed a few more residences neighboring The Homewood. Firstly Gwynne designed a rebuild of a garden cottage to the south of The Homewood in 1958 with an extension in 1966. He then designed two new houses, Amanda on Meadway, a circular house in 1971 (now demolished), and Winterdown, a V-shaped house with a mansard roof from 1985 (recently sold, with planning permission for redevelopment). ​
Picture
10 Blackheath Park. Designed by Patrick Gwynne for Leslie Bilsby. Image from RIBApix.
As well as commissions like the Theatre Royal York and restaurants in Hyde Park, Gwynne would sign many private houses between 1945 and the 1990s. His best client was developer Leslie Bilsby, part of the Span estates company. Gwynne designed a number of houses for Bilsby, not all of them built, but the ones that were are spectacular. 10 Blackheath Park (1968) is a black slate and glass clad intruder in the otherwise polite street in this leafy park of Blackheath. Its finish, X-shaped plan and oval entrance ramp give it an air of a supervillain's lair. His next house for Bilsby, 22 Park Gate (1979), just around the corner from the previous house, is a cluster of three linked brick polygons. 
After Gwynne turned 80 in 1993 he began negotiations with the National Trust to leave The Homewood to them. After 6 years of talks, it was agreed that Gwynne would be able to stay in the house until his death and thereafter the house would be looked after by the trust. It was also agreed that the house would be renovated and repaired, a process which began in 1999. Gwynne passed away in May 2003, and the house was occupied by David Scott and Louise Cavanagh on behalf of the trust, with the house open to the public on select days between April and October.

The Homewood and Patrick Gwynne are featured at the start of Edward Mirzoeff's 1995 film, Treasures in Trust, below.


Patrick Gwynne’s houses in Blackheath, 10 Blackheath Park and 22 Park Gate, feature in our new guidebook, Modernism Beyond Metro-Land, including the best modernist architecture from London's eastern and southern suburbs.
Get your copy
HERE
References
The Houses of
Patrick Gwynne'. The Journal of the Twentieth. Century Society no.4, 2000 pp.30-44

Modern. The Modern Movement in Britain. Alan Powers
The Homewood English Heritage Listing Page 
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1365884

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60 Years of the Royal College of Physicians

3/11/2024

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Picture
The Royal College of Physicians
The Royal College of Physicians building on St Andrews Place, opposite Regents Park was officially opened on 5th November 1964 by Queen Elizabeth II. The society, founded in 1518, had decided to move their headquarters from their building in Pall Mall to a new site, previously home to Someries House, a John Nash building damaged in World War II. The new headquarters was designed by Denys Lasdun, chosen after a process involving the interviewing of five architects. The new building had to fit into the surrounding stucco terraces, incorporate historical elements transferred from the old RCP headquarters and provide offices, meeting rooms, a dining room and a library. ​
Picture
A cross section of the main body of the building. Image from RIBApix.
Lasdun set the new building in a T-plan, with a white mosaic-clad entrance block balanced against a curving dark brick lecture theatre facing Regents Park, and a dark brick administration block along Albany Street, which is also home to the president's apartment.The overhanging library gallery at the front is supported by two thin columns, with groups of thin, vertical windows allowing light into the top floor. On the north side of the exterior is a rugged concrete staircase, a contrast with the more elegant staircases found inside.
Picture
The central staircase inside the college. Image from RIBApix.
Inside, a cantilevered staircase rises through the building which seems to open up as it gets higher, with galleries overlooking the space from each floor. The interior is finished in white marble and mosaic, with one wall full of official portraits of members, both ancient and modern. The cool 1960s modernity is counterbalanced by reminders of the institution's long history throughout the building. The Censors Room projects from the side of the building hanging above the garden area. Its exterior is clad in clean, mid-century white mosaic but the interior steps back to the 17th century with wood panelling by Robert Hooke and paintings from previous buildings. The shock of the ancient amidst the modern is a trick that Richard Rogers would use in the Lloyds building 20 years later, with the 1763 Committee Room recreated inside that High Tech temple. 
Picture
A drawing of the RCP showing the main building and the lecture theatre, with a Nash-era building behind. Image from RIBApix.
The second floor Harvevian library is a recreation of an 18th century place of learning, again panelled in wood and on two levels. At the east end of the building is the Osler room, which again takes up two floors, and provides dining and reception facilities, which can be divided by a hydraulic screen. Back down on the ground floor is a small spiral staircase down to the basement, with walls clad in subtly coloured tiles. Also on the basement level, is stained glass from a previous RCP building, reset by Keith New next to another staircase.The basement opens out onto the garden area looking out onto the terraces of St Andrews Place. On the northside is an extension from 1996, also by Lasdun, a circular meeting room, perfectly in the spirit of the original design. 
Picture
The circular meeting room, added by Lasdun in 1996. Image from RIBApix.
The building was much praised on its completion, with Pevsner calling it “one of the most distinguished buildings of its decade”. It was also awarded the RIBA Bronze Medal in 1964 and a Civic Trust Award in 1967. The building was listed in April 1998, and has been awarded Grade I status, a rare accolade for a post war building. The College has regular tours of the building and is a regular participant in the Open House London festival.
The Royal College of Physicians is one of many Denys Lasdun buildings featured in our Mini Guide No.4, dedicated to the work of the architect. It features 40 colour images of his buildings, including detailed descriptions and histories. Get your copy HERE
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Three Modernist Mews Houses in NW1

29/10/2024

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The modernist mews houses came to the fore in London in the early 1960s as the first post war generation of architects sought to build their own homes, with the rundown backstreets of Camden a particularly fertile area to find an affordable plot of land. Here we present three examples you may come across wandering around NW1.

2 Regal Lane, Primrose Hill, Camden
1961
John Winter
​

A three storey house on a mews opposite Regents Park, this home was designed and built by architect John Winter for himself and his family in the early 1960s whilst working in the office of Erno Goldfinger. A set of garages were on the plot when Winter and his wife Val bought it, and they incorporated the old buildings into their new home. The house was constructed using reclaimed brick, in situ concrete and large windows, allowing light into the house on its narrow plot. The house also features a steel spiral staircase which reaches all the way up to the top floor with the master bedroom and a balcony facing towards the park. Winter extended his original design both before and after before moving to his corten steel house in Swains Lane, Highgate. Winter also designed two further houses in Regal Lane in 1963, Nos.10 & 11, two connected houses in brick with a carport on the ground floor.

15-19 Murray Mews
1964-65

Team 4

Down an indistinct side mews to the east of Camden Town is an early project by two of the most famous names in the second half of 20th century architecture. 15-19 Murray Mews was one of a handful of projects by partnership of Team 4, the short-lived practice made up of Norman Foster, Richard Rogers, Su Brumwell, Wendy Cheesman and Georgie Wolton. The practice only lasted for 4 years, with Wolton leaving after a few months, but produced a handful of influential designs.
One of them was this group of three houses in Camden, all squeezed onto a small plot. The houses open straight out on the street and have a private courtyard at the rear with glazed walls, allowing light into the interior. The houses are constructed of red brick walls and concrete floors, with a sloping glass roof. The tribulations of the houses construction, with an unscrupulous builder ignoring many details of the houses designs, led the practice to look at alternative materials and construction, paving the way for their glass and steel High Tech future. A large number of other houses were built along Murray Mews, including those by Tom Kay (No.22), Richard Gibson (No.20) and David and Ann Hyde-Harrison (No.33).

62 Camden Mews
1962-5

Edward Cullinan

Edward ‘Ted’ Cullinan began his career working for Denys Lasdun, working on projects like the Royal College of Physicians and the University of East Anglia. In 1960 he decided to build a house for himself and his family on an empty lot on Camden Mews. He produced a design for a house facing south with an open plan living area on the first floor, with windows angled to maximize sunlight through the day, but also provide shade in high summer. Bedrooms were placed on the ground floor, with the letter box emptying into the main bedroom, an idea that allows the Sunday newspaper to be delivered directly to bed! 

The two floors are connected by an external staircase via a terrace on the garage roof, and a smaller internal spiral staircase.The house was built between 1962 and 64 by Cullinan with friends and family of a few years, on weekends and when time allowed, using a mixture of timber, brick and concrete, bought , borrowed and stolen (or at least reclaimed). Cullinan and family lived at 62 Camden Mews until Cullian’s death in 2019, with the house recently going on the market for the first time. As on Murray Mews, the 1960s, 70s and 80s saw a number of young architects build houses on Camden Mews, such as Jon Howard (No.74), Peter Bell (no.4) and Sheila Bull (No.23).


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