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Edgware 1924: The Making of a Suburb

27/11/2024

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A poster advertising the opening of the Northern Line Edgware extension. Image from London Transport Museum.
One hundred years ago, the new Edgware Underground station was opened. It marked the completion of the tube extension from Golders Green, on the line we now call the Northern, but what was then the Charing Cross. Euston & Hampstead Railway, owned by the Underground Electric Railways Company of London, the forerunner to London Transport. The expansion of the underground in the first 30 or so years of the 20th century helped spur a suburban boom, as improved transport links allowed people to travel more easily for work and live further away from the centre of London. Property developers built numerous speculative estates around the newly built stations, and other buildings followed, for leisure, education and other needs, some modernist-influenced, most not. 
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Edgware station (in the foreground) and the town as seen shortly after the opening of the station. Image from Britain From Above.
Edgware had been a stopping point for journeys to and from London for hundreds of years, with its main industry being farming and hay making. The Great Northern Railway arrived in the second half of the 19th century, but a population boom did not follow. In the early years of the 20th century, speculative builders like George Cross began to build new houses, with the population increasing to just over 1500 by 1921. The arrival of the tube three years later would increase this figure by 350% over the next 10 years. 

The new station itself was designed by Stanley Heaps, chief architect to the UERL, and later the chief designer for London Transport, although he would be overshadowed by Charles Holden’s input. The station he designed for Edgware continued the suburban theme he used for the previous stations on the extension, at Hendon, Brent Cross and others. The ticket hall was placed in the middle of a U-shaped colonnaded parade containing shops and waiting rooms for bus passengers, with a palette of wooden doors, black & white quarry tiles and iron railings. The streamlined modernity of future stations like Arnos Grove, would have to wait a few years to arrive at the platform.
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Sun Trap houses for sale in Old Rectory Gardens. Image from RIBApix.
However, there were more modernist designs to be found not far from Heaps’ Neo-Georgian terminus. Just around the corner from the station is Old Rectory Gardens, one of the first art deco influenced speculative house groups to be built in the suburbs. They were designed by the partnership of Welch, Cachemaille-Day and Lander, who became known for their Sun Trap style, debuted here. The Sun Trap house incorporated moderne elements from modernism and deco such as curved metal windows, decorative tilework and white render finish, whilst still keeping a traditional house shape, usually presented in terraces or semi detached plans. This compromise became very popular with developers and was much imitated, still found lining the streets of Metro-Land and beyond. 
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A poster for Roger Malcolm of Edgware, developer of many speculative estates in Edgware and beyond. Image from MODA.
The Old Rectory Gardens houses were built for developer Roger Malcolm, who built other schemes in the area, also designed by Welch, Cachemaille-Day and Lander, and can be found at Mill Ridge and St Margarets Road. Other developers followed suit with estates by developers such as John Laing, Wimpey and others quickly filling up any available space. Laing built streets of houses to the north of the new station on the Broadfield Estate, with its Coronation type house, complete with rounded entrance and staircase tower, found at intervals along the new roads. South from there, just across the Edgware Way is a collection of art deco houses by builder and architect Cyril B Heygate on Highview Avenue from 1933. Nos 87-91 still exhibit their colourful decoration with way lines in red between the two floors and beside the upper windows. On the upper end of the speculative market is 2 Broadfields Avenue, a moderne house designed by JE Newberry for Streather and Hogan Builders, an L-shaped house with a curved staircase tower and streamlined balcony. 
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The Gas Light and Coke showroom on Station Road. Image from RIBApix.
Away from housing, there are shopping parades such as the Quadrant Parade, Station Road (1928) and Kings Parade both put up by George Cross, and built in a typically interwar style in red brick with some deco detailing. A similar match of historical and moderne elements was used by Welch, Cachemaille-Day and Lander for their Gas Light and Coke showroom on Station Road, with deco details such as chunky name sign, streamlined lighting and doors with half moon windows fitted onto the existing Neo-Georgian shop. The building still stands, as a Starbucks at 81 Station Road, but the deco details have long gone. 
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The Ritz Cinema, Edgware. Image from Cinema Treasures.
Also in the centre of this new town was the Ritz Cinema, designed by architect Major WJ King, who designed a number of cinemas around the suburbs. The Ritz opened in May 1932, and its design was quite eye-catching, with the profile of an art deco castle, with an array of tower-like projections on its exterior, Inside, it was decorated in a Spanish garden theme. Complete with painted woodland scenes. The cinema was modernised in 1968 with a blue metal screen installed at the front. It remained as a cinema until 2001, when it closed, being demolished the following year. ​
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John Keble Memorial Church. Image from Coulthard.
The most obviously modernist building of the interwar expansion of Edgware was the new church on Deans Lane, the John Keble Memorial Church (1937), designed by D.F. Martin-Smith, who had won the competition for its design, judged by Edward Maufe. It has a square tower with a concrete lantern, constructed of reinforced concrete and yellow stock brick. Inside, the ceiling is constructed in a diagrid pattern, with a diagonal pattern in coffered concrete. The church is now Grade II listed.

Certainly not modernist, but definitely worth mentioning, is the Railway Hotel, an “improved” pub of 1931. It was designed by A.E. Sewell for the Truman Hanbury and Buxton brewery, in a Neo-Tudor style with half timbering, decorative brick chimneys and leaded windows. Improved pubs were built by the chain breweries in the 1920s and 30s, seeking to attract a better class of clientele such as families, and designed to include parking facilities, comfortable saloon bars and dining rooms. They were built all around the suburbs, quite often next to or just off the new bypass and circular roads of the era. Some were built in a moderne style, but most harked back to earlier eras, as seen with the Railway Hotel, Unfortunately this example has not been treated well by the 21st century, and is currently in a dilapidated state, despite its listed status. ​
In the postwar years the area continued to become more built up and with modernism becoming the accepted architectural style, a number of tower blocks and offices appeared in the town centre. These in turn have largely been replaced by the 21st century successors as the town undergoes a major redevelopment in a partnership between developers Ballymore and Transport for London, something which has been fought against by locals fearful of the town they know disappearing before their eyes. 

Many of the houses mentioned here can be found in our Speculative Suburban Houses 1928-38 Mini Guide, available HERE

References
Pevsner London North- Cherry and Pevsner
Semi Detached London- Jackson 
Tube Station Anthology 1900-1933- Abbott and Trower


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Anatomy of a House No.19:The Homewood, Esher

20/11/2024

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Anatomy of a House No.19
​

The Homewood, Esher, Surrey
1939
Patrick Gwynne

Picture
The Homewood, Esher. Image via the Coulthard Collection.
1939 was a high watermark year for the private modernist house in Britain. In this blog series, we have already covered Erno Goldfinger's terrace at Willow Road and Seely and Paget's Studio House in Highgate, both completed the same year. Peter Moro’s Harbour Meadow house at Birdham in West Sussex was also completed in 1939, but perhaps the finest house that year was The Homewood in Esher, Surrey, designed by 26 year old architect Patrick Gwynne for his parents, and later to be his own home.

Gwynne was born on 24th March 1914 in Porchester, Hampshire. His parents were Naval commander Alban Gwynne and Ruby. He attended Harrow school, where he apparently saw Amyas Connell’s High and Over on a sketching trip, a pivotal moment for the young Gwynne. Avoiding his fathers plans for him to go into accountancy, Gwynne trained with former Lutyens assistant Ernest Coleridge, before joining the office of Canadian architect and Isokon designer, Wells Coates, alongside a young Denys Lasdun. Gwynne designed The Homewood just after leaving Coates, after his parents sold an inherited plot of land in Wales, allowing them to pay for the demolition of the old “Homewood” house they had lived in for 25 years and the construction of a new one. The old house was sited next to the main road which had got progressively busier since they settled here, and Gwynne placed the new house at the back of the 10 acre plot amongst mature trees. ​
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The ground and first floor plans for The Homewood. Image via the Coulthard Collection.
The new Homewood Gwynne designed was a ‘Gesamtkunstwerk’, a total work of art, with the young architect creating all the furniture, fittings and even detailing the landscape. The house itself is effectively a two-storey bungalow, with the ground floor built in dark purple brick containing a garage and utility rooms and the living area residing on the elevated first floor. This living area is divided into two sections, an L-shaped portion containing the living room, kitchen, dining room and staff quarters, and a rectangular section housing the bedrooms. These two sections are divided by a spiral staircase which also acts as the entrance from the ground floor. The facades of the two distinct elevations are designed using a standard vertical and horizontal unit, with the wall lengths and windows being multiples of these.
Picture
The first floor living area in The Homewood.
The first floor of the building is constructed of reinforced concrete (engineered by Felix Samuley), which also forms the piers which create a walkway in the garden area with the first floor overhanging it. The main living area runs the length of the upper level with floor to ceiling windows.The living area also has a sprung maple floor and moveable furniture, ready for dancing to begin on social occasions. The living areas, and the rest of the houses, are fitted out with a range of bespoke materials and artworks; including signature wallpapers, abstract panels by Stefan Knapp, a wall of Levanto marble incorporating the fireplace, a folding screen by Peter Thompson and a glass chandelier. No expense was spared on the house, Gwynne’s father would call it the “Temple of costly experience”. Gwynne’s old work colleague, Denys Lasdun, designed the swimming pool on the south terrace, finished in mosaic tiles. The grounds also feature a collection of ponds created out of a tributary of the River Mole.
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One of Patrick Gwynne's record drawings for The Homewood, showing the design of the gardens and landscape. Image from RIBApix.
The house's patrons, Gwynne’s parents, did not live long enough to enjoy their son's designs. They both died before the end of World War II, and his sister decided not to live there, leaving Patrick as the house's inhabitant for the next 46 years, alongside his companion, pianist Harry Rand. The Homewood also acted as his office and showroom for his clients over the next half decade, with many of Gwynne’s future commissions featuring design details Gwynne first tested at his home. Gwynne also designed a few more residences neighboring The Homewood. Firstly Gwynne designed a rebuild of a garden cottage to the south of The Homewood in 1958 with an extension in 1966. He then designed two new houses, Amanda on Meadway, a circular house in 1971 (now demolished), and Winterdown, a V-shaped house with a mansard roof from 1985 (recently sold, with planning permission for redevelopment). ​
Picture
10 Blackheath Park. Designed by Patrick Gwynne for Leslie Bilsby. Image from RIBApix.
As well as commissions like the Theatre Royal York and restaurants in Hyde Park, Gwynne would sign many private houses between 1945 and the 1990s. His best client was developer Leslie Bilsby, part of the Span estates company. Gwynne designed a number of houses for Bilsby, not all of them built, but the ones that were are spectacular. 10 Blackheath Park (1968) is a black slate and glass clad intruder in the otherwise polite street in this leafy park of Blackheath. Its finish, X-shaped plan and oval entrance ramp give it an air of a supervillain's lair. His next house for Bilsby, 22 Park Gate (1979), just around the corner from the previous house, is a cluster of three linked brick polygons. 
After Gwynne turned 80 in 1993 he began negotiations with the National Trust to leave The Homewood to them. After 6 years of talks, it was agreed that Gwynne would be able to stay in the house until his death and thereafter the house would be looked after by the trust. It was also agreed that the house would be renovated and repaired, a process which began in 1999. Gwynne passed away in May 2003, and the house was occupied by David Scott and Louise Cavanagh on behalf of the trust, with the house open to the public on select days between April and October.

The Homewood and Patrick Gwynne are featured at the start of Edward Mirzoeff's 1995 film, Treasures in Trust, below.


Patrick Gwynne’s houses in Blackheath, 10 Blackheath Park and 22 Park Gate, feature in our new guidebook, Modernism Beyond Metro-Land, including the best modernist architecture from London's eastern and southern suburbs.
Get your copy
HERE
References
The Houses of
Patrick Gwynne'. The Journal of the Twentieth. Century Society no.4, 2000 pp.30-44

Modern. The Modern Movement in Britain. Alan Powers
The Homewood English Heritage Listing Page 
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1365884

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60 Years of the Royal College of Physicians

3/11/2024

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The Royal College of Physicians
The Royal College of Physicians building on St Andrews Place, opposite Regents Park was officially opened on 5th November 1964 by Queen Elizabeth II. The society, founded in 1518, had decided to move their headquarters from their building in Pall Mall to a new site, previously home to Someries House, a John Nash building damaged in World War II. The new headquarters was designed by Denys Lasdun, chosen after a process involving the interviewing of five architects. The new building had to fit into the surrounding stucco terraces, incorporate historical elements transferred from the old RCP headquarters and provide offices, meeting rooms, a dining room and a library. ​
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A cross section of the main body of the building. Image from RIBApix.
Lasdun set the new building in a T-plan, with a white mosaic-clad entrance block balanced against a curving dark brick lecture theatre facing Regents Park, and a dark brick administration block along Albany Street, which is also home to the president's apartment.The overhanging library gallery at the front is supported by two thin columns, with groups of thin, vertical windows allowing light into the top floor. On the north side of the exterior is a rugged concrete staircase, a contrast with the more elegant staircases found inside.
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The central staircase inside the college. Image from RIBApix.
Inside, a cantilevered staircase rises through the building which seems to open up as it gets higher, with galleries overlooking the space from each floor. The interior is finished in white marble and mosaic, with one wall full of official portraits of members, both ancient and modern. The cool 1960s modernity is counterbalanced by reminders of the institution's long history throughout the building. The Censors Room projects from the side of the building hanging above the garden area. Its exterior is clad in clean, mid-century white mosaic but the interior steps back to the 17th century with wood panelling by Robert Hooke and paintings from previous buildings. The shock of the ancient amidst the modern is a trick that Richard Rogers would use in the Lloyds building 20 years later, with the 1763 Committee Room recreated inside that High Tech temple. 
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A drawing of the RCP showing the main building and the lecture theatre, with a Nash-era building behind. Image from RIBApix.
The second floor Harvevian library is a recreation of an 18th century place of learning, again panelled in wood and on two levels. At the east end of the building is the Osler room, which again takes up two floors, and provides dining and reception facilities, which can be divided by a hydraulic screen. Back down on the ground floor is a small spiral staircase down to the basement, with walls clad in subtly coloured tiles. Also on the basement level, is stained glass from a previous RCP building, reset by Keith New next to another staircase.The basement opens out onto the garden area looking out onto the terraces of St Andrews Place. On the northside is an extension from 1996, also by Lasdun, a circular meeting room, perfectly in the spirit of the original design. 
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The circular meeting room, added by Lasdun in 1996. Image from RIBApix.
The building was much praised on its completion, with Pevsner calling it “one of the most distinguished buildings of its decade”. It was also awarded the RIBA Bronze Medal in 1964 and a Civic Trust Award in 1967. The building was listed in April 1998, and has been awarded Grade I status, a rare accolade for a post war building. The College has regular tours of the building and is a regular participant in the Open House London festival.
The Royal College of Physicians is one of many Denys Lasdun buildings featured in our Mini Guide No.4, dedicated to the work of the architect. It features 40 colour images of his buildings, including detailed descriptions and histories. Get your copy HERE
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